Greenwich: Where Time Begins
The Postcard #3 With love from London
A little further, on the left hand, we are suddenly surprised … by what appear to be the stateliest buildings ever raised by the hand of man. Greenwich Hospital with all its columns and domes comes down in perfect symmetry to the water’s edge, and makes the river again a stately waterway where the nobility of England once walked at their ease on green lawns, or descended stone steps to their pleasure barges.
—Virginia Woolf: The Docks of London (from The London Scene)
🇩🇰 version ↓
What is the first thing you think about when I say London?
Shopping on Oxford Street or in Harrods? Going to the theatre to see famous actors or The Lion King? Enjoying a lavish afternoon tea or Indian food? Twiggy and The Beatles in Carnaby Street or on Kings Road? The Pre-Raphaelite Brotherhood and the role they play in John Fowles’s The French Lieutenant’s Woman (okay, me being a geek here 🤭)? Or something entirely different?
Let me know in the comments, I would love to hear your thoughts.
My Corner of London
My little corner of London is entirely different, though, filled with deep history and meaning. The place that I have lost my heart to is the Greenwich/Blackheath area in Southeast London; a place which, on the whole, is much quieter, greener, airier, and which speaks to the soul.
There are hundreds of things I could tell you about Greenwich and Blackheath from the many periods during which I have lived here.
The way my heart aches just a little whenever I first glimpse the Cutty Sark, that stunning 19th-century clipper that used to bring tea all the way from China, and which is now hovering in dry dock by the Thames, still evoking stories of trade and adventure.
Or the joy of working by the window in the W Café enjoying a pot of tea and a scone with clotted cream and jam, overlooking the old Greenwich Hospital, now is the Royal Naval College, the majesty of which was so beautifully described by Virginia Woolf (see above).
Or long leisurely walks through my beloved Greenwich Park with all its secrets and the most astounding view, or strolling through Blackheath Village to get afternoon coffee and crêpes.
But one of the most breathtaking things in the whole world is the steep climb up to the Royal Observatory which is perched on high. This is quite literally where time begins: the home of the Prime Meridian line, where East meets West, and from where all time zones are measured. If you come in the morning before the tourists, you have the quiet to breathe in the view of all of London: over Greenwich Park to the famous towers and quirky spires of the city. The philosophical implications of this place —the very measuring of time and space — always take my breath away.
I cannot wait to pack up and treat myself to a lovely picnic there later today.
Wish you were here.
With love,
Annette 🌳
I would love for you to leave a comment if you like this Postcard ❤️
The theme for my Letters in August will also be London and famous novels and films that are set there. Click to upgrade if you don’t want to miss out.
The Postcard 💌
The Postcard is a cozy, personal note from my favourite corners of the world: cafés or parks or bookshops or benches in London, Copenhagen, Paris, Nice, Dublin or Edinburgh. It will arrive in your inbox every month, even if you are on the free plan.
Over a cup of tea or coffee, I will share with you my adventures in the places I travel to, or things that matter to me at the moment: books I am reading, restaurants I love, thoughts I am having, or the simple joys of life.
I hope The Postcard will give you an insight into my life and work and a moment of inspiration and reflection.
Greenwich: Hvor tiden begynder
The Postcard #3 Kærlig hilsen fra London
Lidt længere fremme, på venstre side, bliver vi pludselig overrasket ... af, hvad der synes at være de mest statelige bygninger, der nogensinde er rejst af menneskehånd. Greenwich Hospital med alle dets søjler og kupler går ned i perfekt symmetri til vandkanten og gør floden igen til en statelig vandvej, hvor Englands adel engang gik i ro og mag på grønne græsplæner eller gik ned ad stentrapper til deres lystbåde.
—Virginia Woolf: The Docks of London (from The London Scene)
Hvad er det første, du tænker på, når jeg siger London?
Shopping på Oxford Street eller i Harrods? En teatertur for at se berømte skuespillere eller Løvernes Konge? En overdådig eftermiddagste eller indisk mad? Twiggy og The Beatles på Carnaby Street eller på Kings Road? Det prærafaelitiske broderskab og den rolle, de spiller i John Fowles' Den franske løjtnants kvinde (okay, det er vist mig, der er en nørd)? Eller noget helt andet? Fortæl mig det i kommentarerne, jeg vil meget gerne høre dine tanker.
Mit hjørne af London
Mit elskede lille hjørne af London er dog noget helt andet. Et sted fyldt med endeløse historier og betydning. Det sted, jeg har tabt mit hjerte til, er Greenwich/Blackheath-området i det sydøstlige London; et sted, der generelt er meget roligere, grønnere, luftigere, og som taler til sjælen.
Der er hundredvis af ting, jeg kunne fortælle dig om Greenwich og Blackheath fra de mange perioder, jeg har boet her.
Som at mit hjerte giver et lille stik, hver gang jeg får det første glimt af Cutty Sark, den fantastiske clipper fra det 19. århundrede, der transporterede te hele vejen fra Kina, og som nu svæver i tørdok ved Themsen og stadig antyder historier om handel og eksotiske eventyr.
Eller glæden ved at arbejde ved vinduet i W Café med en kande te og en scone med clotted cream og marmelade, med udsigt over det gamle Greenwich Hospital, som nu er The Royal Naval College, hvis statelighed blev så smukt beskrevet af Virginia Woolf.
Eller lange, afslappede gåture gennem min elskede Greenwich Park med alle dens hemmeligheder og den forbløffende udsigt, eller en slentretur gennem Blackheath Village for at få eftermiddagskaffe og crêpes.
Men en af de mest betagende ting i verden er den stejle klatetur op til The Royal Observatory, som knejser højt oppe på bakken. Det er - bogstaveligt talt - her, at tiden begynder: her hører nulmeridianlinjen, hvor øst møder vest, hjemme; og herfra måles alle tidszoner. Hvis man kommer om morgenen før alle turisterne, har man en mageløs stilhed til at indånde og nyde udsigten over hele London: henover Greenwich Park til byens berømte tårne og finurlige spir. De filosofiske implikationer af dette sted, selve det at måle tid og rum, tager altid pusten fra mig.
Jeg glæder mig rigtig meget til at forkæle mig selv med en stille picnic der senere i dag.
Gid du var her.
Med kærlig hilsen
Annette 🌳
Læg meget gerne en kommentar, hvis du kunne lide dette Postcard.
Temaet for mine Breve i august vil være London og berømte romaner og film, der foregår der. Klik for at opgradere, hvis du ikke vil gå glip af det.